AMA DABLAM
In 1996, when on a three month trip in Nepal, I spent a night camping near the Ama Dablam base camp. I will never forget seeing this majestic mountain, feeling the energy and exuberance of a party of climbers who had submitted and imagining one day experiencing this myself.
In 2018, when I decided I would definitely do a climb and combine it with fundraising for MS, my mind went straight back to Ama Dablam. But self-limiting beliefs intervened - Ama Dablam is a big mountain!! It is 6812m high and referred to as the ‘mountaineer’s mountain’. It is a very technical climb, with ice and rock climbing at high altitude, and significant exposure. And so I spent a couple of years researching what other mountains I may be able to climb that may bring me the same sense of achievement and be significant enough to make a statement to help increase my profile and this fundraising.
But the more I researched the more Ama Dablam kept calling me (it is, after all, considered one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalayas), until it became the screen on my phone, the subject of a Facebook post sharing my dream, and then a reality as I took the step to find an expedition that I could join. And so it is, that in late November 2022, I will be making my own push to the summit of this mountain that I feel has been beckoning me for nearly three decades!
While I have spent a lot of time ski touring and snow camping in alpine environments, rock climbing some pretty big cliffs, and several months trekking in Nepal at up to 5400m, in order to be able to climb Ama Dablam, I need to gain a little more experience at high altitude, gain some important mountaineering skills and increase my physical fitness, and so my journey now has a number of distinct parts to it:
Fitness training- this will include the following
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Climbing conditioning — pack-loaded uphill hiking, walking, and stair climbing
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Strength training — for the lower body and core
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Cardiovascular training — including both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without pack weight (weighing approx.
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Flexibility training
Mountaineering skills training
This will involve training in – crampon and ice ax technique, self-arrest, setting snow anchors and running protection, fixed line ascension, ice climbing , rappelling, snow anchors & running protection and crevasse rescue
Mera Peak expedition (23 days)
This expedition is just prior to the Ama Dablam expedition, and will provide the opportunity to trek/cimb to 6461m and practice basic mountaineering skills at high altitude
Ama Dablam expedition (28 days) - The dream!!
Fundraising!
Tues 11 Oct
Fly from Melbourne to Kathmandu
Wed 12 Oct
Personal preparation day
Thurs 13 Oct
to Fri 14 Oct
Visit the Youth Hostel of the Forum for the Welfare of Himalaya Children in Kathmandu
Sat 15 Oct
Mera Peak expedition starts in Kathmandu
Sun 16 Oct
Expedition preparation in Kathmandu for Ama Mera Peak
Mon 17 Oct
Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2800m), then day trek to Chutanga (3200m) to begin acclimatisation
Tue 18 Oct
to Thurs 27 Oct
Trek from Lukla to Khara (5100m)
Fri 28 Oct
Glacier and mountaineering skills day at Khare
Sun 29 Oct
Trek Mera Peak Base Camp (5400m)
Sun 30 Oct
Trek to Mera Peak High Camp (5780m)
Mon 31 Oct
Climb to Mera Peak Summit (6461m) and return to Khare (This is a long day of approximately 10-12 hours)
Tue 1 Nov
to Fri 4 Nov
Trek from Khare back to Lukla (2800m)
Sat 5 Nov
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and re–check into The Radisson Hotel. Time to celebrate and party
Sun 6 Nov
Trip concludes in Kathmandu
Sun 6 Nov
Ama Dablam Expedition starts in Kathmandu
Mon 7 Nov
Expedition preparation in Kathmandu for Ama Dablam
Tues 8 Nov
to Tues 15 Nov
Fly to Lukla (2800m) then trek to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m) with acclimatization side trips up to 5800m
Wed 16 Nov
to Thurs 17 Nov
Rest, train, prep for climb
Fri 18 Nov
to Tues 29 Nov
Approx. climbing schedule
Day 1 - Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m/18,368ft) and camp
Day 2 - Return back to base camp
Day 3 - Rest
Day 4 - Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m/18,368ft) and camp
Day 5 - Climb to Camp 2 (5,900m/19,352ft) and camp
Day 6 - Touch 6,000m and return base camp
Day 7 - Rest
Day 8 - Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m/18,368ft) and camp
Day 9 - Climb to Camp 2 (5,900m/19,352ft) and camp
Day 10 - Summit push (6,812m/20,283ft) and return to Camp 2
Day 11 - Return to base camp, celebrate
Day 12 - Rest, pack up